Crazy trip of crazy is working out okay so far!
Train out of France (to Geneva) got rerouted because of strikes, so I ended up having to sit in the non-air-conditioned standing room for people who don't have reservations. Not very fun, but at least I got there. Train ride from Geneva to Zürich was GORGEOUS. Night train from Zürich to Salzburg not so fun; all the sleeper cars were booked solid because of the air-travel ban, so I ended up in a not-very-comfortable seat in an over-air-conditioned train, and got into Salzburg at four in the morning freezing my butt off. But all is well, I have a bed in a rather nice youth hostel, and I managed to sort of order coffee in German, which is more than I managed last time I was in Zürich.
Salzburg is... very very Baroque. Okay, I will admit it, I came in here not bothering to think about the cultural stereotype of Austria and mentally correct for it. And due to the shittiness of the American education system and their failure to teach European history, the American cultural stereotype of Austria is "that place that's kind of like Germany, only with better skiing, scarier right-wing politicians, and The Sound of Music." It was a long time after high school that I learned that AUSTRIA USED TO BE A FUCKING EMPIRE back before a united Germany was even a twinkle in Bismarck's eye, so I tend to forget when I'm not thinking with my historian-brain. I don't think I'll ever forget again, not after all these elaborate formal gardens and giant wedding-cake Catholic churches. And yes, all the rococo is rather cute and twee, until you remember that it was the velvet glove over the proverbial fist, and that you DID NOT insult Austria's twee pastel cake-frosting architecture unless you wanted them to come partition your country.
Unfortunately, no Mozart concerts tonight, so I'll have to content myself with just wandering around listening to the Marriage of Figaro on headphones and admiring all the Imperial splendor.
Train out of France (to Geneva) got rerouted because of strikes, so I ended up having to sit in the non-air-conditioned standing room for people who don't have reservations. Not very fun, but at least I got there. Train ride from Geneva to Zürich was GORGEOUS. Night train from Zürich to Salzburg not so fun; all the sleeper cars were booked solid because of the air-travel ban, so I ended up in a not-very-comfortable seat in an over-air-conditioned train, and got into Salzburg at four in the morning freezing my butt off. But all is well, I have a bed in a rather nice youth hostel, and I managed to sort of order coffee in German, which is more than I managed last time I was in Zürich.
Salzburg is... very very Baroque. Okay, I will admit it, I came in here not bothering to think about the cultural stereotype of Austria and mentally correct for it. And due to the shittiness of the American education system and their failure to teach European history, the American cultural stereotype of Austria is "that place that's kind of like Germany, only with better skiing, scarier right-wing politicians, and The Sound of Music." It was a long time after high school that I learned that AUSTRIA USED TO BE A FUCKING EMPIRE back before a united Germany was even a twinkle in Bismarck's eye, so I tend to forget when I'm not thinking with my historian-brain. I don't think I'll ever forget again, not after all these elaborate formal gardens and giant wedding-cake Catholic churches. And yes, all the rococo is rather cute and twee, until you remember that it was the velvet glove over the proverbial fist, and that you DID NOT insult Austria's twee pastel cake-frosting architecture unless you wanted them to come partition your country.
Unfortunately, no Mozart concerts tonight, so I'll have to content myself with just wandering around listening to the Marriage of Figaro on headphones and admiring all the Imperial splendor.
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