Ten Little Chances to be Free (
tenlittlebullets) wrote2007-08-09 12:33 am
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Paris photo post #2: Your Friendly Neighborhood Tour Guide
In which
letitallgo takes advantage of the fact that many of the locations mentioned in LM are smack in the middle of the Marais to present a string of them in the form of a Tour. If any of you lovely folks should ever visit Paris, feel free to snitch this post for your own use; everything mentioned here is within easy walking distance.
Our starting point is the intersection of the rue Saint-Martin and the rue du Cloître Saint-Merri, site of the real barricade that Hugo based his fictional barricade on. For those who wish to follow along on a map, start here. (If you want to be hardcore and start from the site of the barricade, follow the rue Rambuteau away from the Halles for three or four blocks before turning right on the rue Saint-Martin. Take it to the far end of the Place Georges Pompidou and then continue on Saint-Martin for another block or so--you want the rue due Cloître Saint-Merri, not the rue Saint-Merri.)




Take the rue du Cloître Saint-Merri until it ends. Turn left on the rue du Renard, then take the first right onto the rue Saint-Merri. After the rue du Temple it will become the rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie; keep going for a block, then turn left on the rue des Archives. This section of the rue des Archives, between the rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie and the Clos des Blancs-Manteaux, used to be the rue de l'Homme-Armé, where Valjean had his apartment. There's a plaque on no. 40 indicating the former name of the street, though this wasn't where Valjean's apartment would have been.


Now turn around and take the rue des Archives back towards the river. Turn left onto the rue de la Verrerie and no. 16, where Marius lodged with Courfeyrac after moving out of the Gorbeau house, is at the end of the block on the left.




Go back to the rue des Archives and take it to the rue de Rivoli. If you wish, make a brief stop at the Hôtel de Ville, which isn't directly related to this tour but might be of interest if you like Parisian history enough to read this far.

Turn left on the rue de Rivoli and walk for a ways. It's not really that far, but it's a bit longer than the distances covered so far. Eventually you'll come across a church--the Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis--right in front of the rue de Sévigné. At 11 rue de Sévigné is a bit of the wall where Thénardier escaped from La Force; a couple blocks back, at 24 rue Pavée, is a fragment of the wall from the actual prison.

The Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis is where Marius married Cosette--and also, not coincidentally, where Hugo's daughter Léopoldine was married as well. It's a nice church. Go in and take a look around.







In front of the church, the rue de Rivoli becomes the rue Saint-Antoine; keep going for a while on the rue Saint-Antoine, then turn left on the rue de Birague, which will take you to the Place des Vosges. No. 6 is Victor Hugo's old apartment, which has been converted into a museum.

Return to the rue Saint-Antoine, which will eventually lead you to the Place de la Bastille. Quite aside from any trifling details like revolutions, fortresses, and angry mobs, the Place de la Bastille was also the site of Napoleon's elephant, where Gavroche sheltered his two younger brothers for the night. The elephant is gone, and has been replaced by the July Column.



Now you have a choice--you can take a moderately long (ten blocks tops) walk from the Place de la Bastille to the rue des Filles du Calvaire, or you can take the metro. (Filles-du-Calvaire is three stops away from Bastille on line 8 towards Balard.) If you're going to walk, take the boulevard Beaumarchais, which turns into the boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, which leads to the Place Pasdeloup. When you get there, turn left into the rue des Filles du Calvaire. No. 6, on the left, was M. Gillenormand's residence.



(No, it's not of No. 6, but I needed a gratuitous shot of the street sign. And besides, the houses at the end of the street look much more properly bourgeois. ;) M. Gillenormand would be pleased.)
And that's it! The tour ends conveniently at the Filles-du-Calvaire metro stop, so you can get back to wherever you'd like to go.
Our starting point is the intersection of the rue Saint-Martin and the rue du Cloître Saint-Merri, site of the real barricade that Hugo based his fictional barricade on. For those who wish to follow along on a map, start here. (If you want to be hardcore and start from the site of the barricade, follow the rue Rambuteau away from the Halles for three or four blocks before turning right on the rue Saint-Martin. Take it to the far end of the Place Georges Pompidou and then continue on Saint-Martin for another block or so--you want the rue due Cloître Saint-Merri, not the rue Saint-Merri.)
Take the rue du Cloître Saint-Merri until it ends. Turn left on the rue du Renard, then take the first right onto the rue Saint-Merri. After the rue du Temple it will become the rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie; keep going for a block, then turn left on the rue des Archives. This section of the rue des Archives, between the rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie and the Clos des Blancs-Manteaux, used to be the rue de l'Homme-Armé, where Valjean had his apartment. There's a plaque on no. 40 indicating the former name of the street, though this wasn't where Valjean's apartment would have been.
Now turn around and take the rue des Archives back towards the river. Turn left onto the rue de la Verrerie and no. 16, where Marius lodged with Courfeyrac after moving out of the Gorbeau house, is at the end of the block on the left.
Go back to the rue des Archives and take it to the rue de Rivoli. If you wish, make a brief stop at the Hôtel de Ville, which isn't directly related to this tour but might be of interest if you like Parisian history enough to read this far.
Turn left on the rue de Rivoli and walk for a ways. It's not really that far, but it's a bit longer than the distances covered so far. Eventually you'll come across a church--the Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis--right in front of the rue de Sévigné. At 11 rue de Sévigné is a bit of the wall where Thénardier escaped from La Force; a couple blocks back, at 24 rue Pavée, is a fragment of the wall from the actual prison.
The Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis is where Marius married Cosette--and also, not coincidentally, where Hugo's daughter Léopoldine was married as well. It's a nice church. Go in and take a look around.
In front of the church, the rue de Rivoli becomes the rue Saint-Antoine; keep going for a while on the rue Saint-Antoine, then turn left on the rue de Birague, which will take you to the Place des Vosges. No. 6 is Victor Hugo's old apartment, which has been converted into a museum.
Return to the rue Saint-Antoine, which will eventually lead you to the Place de la Bastille. Quite aside from any trifling details like revolutions, fortresses, and angry mobs, the Place de la Bastille was also the site of Napoleon's elephant, where Gavroche sheltered his two younger brothers for the night. The elephant is gone, and has been replaced by the July Column.
Now you have a choice--you can take a moderately long (ten blocks tops) walk from the Place de la Bastille to the rue des Filles du Calvaire, or you can take the metro. (Filles-du-Calvaire is three stops away from Bastille on line 8 towards Balard.) If you're going to walk, take the boulevard Beaumarchais, which turns into the boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, which leads to the Place Pasdeloup. When you get there, turn left into the rue des Filles du Calvaire. No. 6, on the left, was M. Gillenormand's residence.
(No, it's not of No. 6, but I needed a gratuitous shot of the street sign. And besides, the houses at the end of the street look much more properly bourgeois. ;) M. Gillenormand would be pleased.)
And that's it! The tour ends conveniently at the Filles-du-Calvaire metro stop, so you can get back to wherever you'd like to go.

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